How Coloured Gemstones Can Be Used In Bespoke Jewellery
Simon has always been a bit of a magpie when it comes to coloured gemstones, in his line of work - whether he’s working on a beautiful bespoke engagement ring, a custom-made pendant or a one-of-a-kind pair of earrings - it is not surprising that every so often he comes across a special gemstone that he can’t help but buy. One of Simon’s most recent purchases was this natural deep grey/green spinel (below), but his fascination with coloured gemstones and how to use them in bespoke jewellery to enhance their unique nature doesn’t end there. Here we will look at the types of coloured gemstones Simon regularly comes across and rotates through his stock, and how they may enhance one of his custom-made jewellery commissions.
Types of Coloured Gemstones
Spinel Gemstone
Much like sapphire, spinel can form in a range of colours from blue to orange, but is most famed for its deep red hue, often being confused with ruby. One of the most famous of these mix-ups is the Black Prince’s Ruby, which, in fact, is no ruby, but a red spinel. The date of mining is unknown, but there is a record of it being owned by Moorish kings in the 13-14th century before passing over to the Spanish king Don Pedro of Castile (also known as Don Pedro the Cruel). This beautiful gem then made its way into the hands of Prince Edward III, otherwise known as the Black Prince, allegedly as a reward for support in battle. Being passed down through many noble English families, it has now found a home in the Imperial State Crown alongside the Koh-i-Noor diamond.
All the colours of the rainbow! A selection of fine coloured gemstones
Fancy Coloured Diamonds
As well as this gorgeous spinel, we have a rainbow of fancy coloured diamonds ranging from canary yellow to turquoise blue. Due to their rarity, fancy coloured diamonds can fetch quite a sum; a perfect example of this was the huge Pink Star diamond, weighing at an enormous 59.60cts and sold for £57.3 million. Although none of our fancy diamonds reach anywhere near that weight, they can be used as a flash of colour amongst white diamonds.
PIC: All the colours of the rainbow! A selection of fine coloured gemstones
Whilst white diamonds will always be the traditional choice for engagement rings, using coloured gemstones in your jewellery can add a personal touch, and Simon is regularly asked to create more and more coloured gemstone rings.
Just a few of the coloured sapphires we regularly pick up
Sapphire Gemstones
Such is the demand for sapphire engagement rings these days, Simon regularly sources some of the finest and most interesting examples of sapphires across the colour spectrum - from royal blue, luxurious green, vibrant orange, and even colour-change sapphires, which change colour under different lighting. Not to mention the ever-in-demand teal sapphires.
A selection of emeralds and tourmalines
Emerald Gemstones
Simon’s exotic coloured gemstone connections don’t just end there. His relationships with some of the best emerald suppliers make him the envy of Hatton Garden jewellers. Much like sapphire, emerald is also a very popular choice - particularly for those seeking an alternative to traditional diamond rings (but that’s not to say they don’t make perfect bedfellows). The most sought-after emerald colours are bluish green to pure green, with vivid saturation, while emeralds with fewer inclusions (imperfections or flaws) are also more desirable.
Tourmaline Gemstones
Tourmaline also offers a great deal of variety; in fact, no other gemstone offers as many options in terms of colour, often featuring multiple colours in a single gemstone. Simon regularly picks up tourmalines in a whole host of colours, including red, pink, blue, yellow and brown. However, the most recognised and asked for is the typical green. Such is the richness and vividness of green tourmalines, that they are considered to be an excellent and more affordable alternative to emeralds. Tourmalines are also famed for their cylindrical-like inclusions that give them a cat’s eye effect when they are cut as cabochons (a gemstone shaped and polished into a smooth, rounded dome with a flat or slightly curved base, rather than cut into geometric facets).
Ruby Gemstones
The most expensive coloured gemstone, Simon is able to source a huge variety of cuts and hues. Rubies come in every shade of red, from pinkish to purplish or brownish red. The finest stones come from Burma; those from Thailand, the main source, are brownish red; Afghanistan, Pakistan, and Vietnam produce bright red stones; those from India, North Carolina (USA), Russia, Australia and Norway are dark, sometimes even opaque. Such is the value of ruby, it has famously become synonymous with marking 40th wedding anniversaries, with red the colour undoubtedly associated with the milestone, making ruby rings, earrings, pendants and even cufflinks gifts of choice between partners. However, much like any other coloured gemstone, don’t let convention stand in your way when making your decision as to which stone speaks to you - ruby engagement rings are a very popular request. Remember, there are no rules!
Aquamarine Gemstones
Renowned for its tranquil blue hues that range from pale pastel blue to light blue-green, aquamarine remains a perennial favourite for everything from engagement rings to bespoke pendants, so Simon naturally often comes across them on his travels. Today, the most valued colours are sky-blue and dark blue, whereas in the 19th century, the preferred colour for aquamarine was sea-green, and indeed the name itself derives from the Latin for sea water. Undoubtedly beautiful on their own, but when paired with diamonds, they create a calm and cooling sparkle like no other.
Tsavorite Gemstones
Tsavorite is a rare, emerald-green variety of garnet. Its vibrant green hues, durability and lack of inclusions noticeable to the naked eye make it highly prized as an alternative to emerald and, in turn, one of the most valuable of the garnet family. Offering beautiful, vibrant greens at a more affordable price, tsavorite looks spectacular as a centrepiece in an engagement ring, worn with diamonds.
Tanzanite Gemstones
Tanzanite is a rare blue-violet gemstone found exclusively near Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania. Rich in blue, violet and burgundy hues, they are often referred to as a single source gemstone, as the supply is expected to be exhausted within the next 10 to 30 years. Already significantly rarer (and thus more expensive) than diamonds, high-grade tanzanites are fast becoming a true investment that will only continue to rise in value.
Coloured Gemstone Jewellery by Simon Wright
With a rainbow of coloured gemstones at his fingertips, boasting a galaxy of shapes and sizes to suit any style or budget, Simon’s instinct for finding high-quality coloured gemstones is just as sharp as his ability to craft the finest bespoke jewellery London has to offer. If you would like to discuss a bespoke piece of coloured gemstone jewellery or if you are considering custom-made coloured gemstone jewellery in London and would like to explore your ideas in person, book an appointment today.
Be sure to follow our Instagram page to see some of our latest creations, including coloured gemstone rings, vintage reproduction rings and bespoke cufflinks.
Simon Wright is a highly respected jeweller whose precision, artistry, and dedication to craftsmanship have defined his career for over three decades. Known for his meticulous attention to detail and ability to create meaningful, exquisitely made pieces, he has earned recognition not only from clients but also within the wider industry. Simon has contributed to the prestigious Goldsmiths’ Craftsmanship & Design Awards as a judge, supporting innovation in design, and has trained apprentices who have gone on to build successful careers, cementing his reputation as both a master craftsman and a mentor within the luxury jewellery world.
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